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The average American buys 64 pieces of clothing a year. That more new tank tops and jeggings than there are weeks to put them on. And that we buy those things, often,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], using the tacit knowning that the pullover purchased in January isn will make it to Christmas as well as spring equinox. Elizabeth L. Cline has one particular typical American wardrobe. As she admits in her new book The Shockingly Very high cost Cheap Fashion, an eye-opening exploration of our mania for bargain-basement fashion: paid under $30 per item on average for every piece of clothing during my closet. Most of my shoes cost less than $15. She describes an inventory of, and underwear notwithstanding, some 364 bits of clothing.
We all have closets overflowing with clothing, drawers spilling over with T-shirts, and underwear in each and every color of the rainbow. Yet, as Cline informs us,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], spend more money on eating out in restaurants than we all do on attiring ourselves - and only 3 percent of the measly amount we invest in clothing goes to apparel made in the United States.
In much the same way that decades of plummeting food prices have resulted in both grim industrial practices as well as an overall decline in our health, the demand for ever cheaper clothing has choked off our garment industry, created mountains of waste,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and destroyed our relationship with our own self-image. We now have come to expect that the mass-produced, tissue-thin shirt will break apart following a washing or two, and that the leggings plucked from the crammed rack within MEGA SALE sign will have an opening inside them towards the end each week. You are what you eat, but you are also to an even more publicly discernible extent what you wear. What exactly are you whenever you wearing a $5 polyester shirt produced in China and shipped here through the boatload?
Cline understands that in a rough economic climate, few of us are able to afford expensive,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], fabulously crafted goods. But what she does create a convincing plea for is really a renewed connection with our clothing and,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], by extension, ourselves and our communities. Salon spoke with her recently about how exactly fashion sunk so low, the main difference from a bargain along with a good value,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and what we can do to reinvent the American closet.
A few years ago I saw an ad for $2 camisoles at Old Navy, and realized I didn feel excited about it, I was disturbed. It changed generate an income felt about shopping. Inform us about your own conversion.
Three years ago, I purchased seven pairs of shoes for $7 each at Kmart. Within the moment,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it was irresistible. But the moment I landed the deal,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a bigger picture emerged. Buying cheap clothes is fun, but wearing them and achieving a closet filled with them happens to be dissatisfying for a lot of consumers.
Among the things you address within the book is the way that shopping and spending have become leads to themselves,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. You talk about the YouTube phenomenon of haulers - people who post videos of what they acquired in their latest shopping sprees.
There a very big disconnect out there between what people are purchasing and just how they use things. What interesting is that you can be considered an consumer when there no expertise involved you simply heading out and consuming and bragging about it. Expertise about clothes has always meant knowing about fabrics, seams and craftsmanship. Now it being aware of price points and trends.
Of all of the culprits for the cheapening of favor, who have predicted it might have been major designers? Yet you discuss how partnerships like Isaac Mizrahi for Target and Karl Lagerfeld and Versace for H have created this very illusionary indisputable fact that haute couture can be acquired in the mall for $9.99 and what so now to the expectations.
Back in the early area of the 20th century,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], women were very aware of Parisian couture and everybody wanted to copy them. Which means you would go to a dressmaker or result in the dress. Now people stand it line to purchase disposable copies. Michelle Obama was photographed within the Jason Wu for Target dress this spring. We now have it in our head that cheap is democratic; meanwhile the American garment industry has been badly hit.
To be fair towards the bargain hunters, I remember when it took much more work for find clothes that were affordable and cute. Inexpensive was previously synonymous with ugly.
Well, within the and also you could walk into a department store and obtain something beautiful and durable. Then there was a real dead zone and a transition in the retail industry. When these fashionable discounters came along, it looked like we had found its way to some fashion nirvana. These huge corporate clothing chains have put lots of money about the concept that cheap is chic and it cool.
The problem is that the only way these stores sell these clothes as cheaply as they do is as simple as selling clothes in extraordinary, unsustainably high volumes.
What happened is that over the last two decades, consumers have learned to fetishize and seek out the cheapest clothes. We lost sight of clothes as materials as stuff that are made. They now symbolic. We buying either low price or we purchasing a name. The name of the game is just paying as little as you can.
So what can we all do to alter that game?
I talk a lot about quality because no one is going to alter behavior on principle. They going to change as their clothing is falling apart.
The first thing we are able to do is demand better quality clothes which are affordable. Support any line or get you noticed feel is making an effort to make quality products that are fairly priced,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. I attempt to support independent designers that create locally. I would like to see more fair trade. I think that's a great means to fix many of the problems within the fashion industry. I love to buy a T-shirt and jeans and feel OK about it and still 't be emptying your wallet. Nobody wants to spend $100 on the shirt,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych].
Things are changing. There is a whole burgeoning sustainable design movement. We realizing more retailers who are dedicated to it. Fashion schools like FIT have sustainability courses worked in to the curriculum. You starting to see clothing swaps and refashioning secondhand clothes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. It great to purchase vintage and secondhand,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]; it much more fascinating that individuals are likely to Salvation Army and becoming clothes and rebuilding them into different things and new.
One more thing I recommend, and that i know this is hard for a lot of individuals to imagine, is learn how to sew. It makes you a better consumer. It makes you in a position to recognize quality and craftsmanship, and then you know if you notice it.
What is your opinion may be the payoff of this type of engagement for consumers?
At this time, we see clothes as disposable. We don maintain what we should wear. If perhaps people knew how easy it's to get rid of that. Whenever we just passively consuming it as being a disposable good we lost our link with something which might be so meaningful. And that tragic.
Shopping is among the most passive activity there is. I tell the folks I understand who spend a lot time shopping, there is no way you can take more time maintaining your clothes than you need to do at this time buying them. And once you give some alternatives a try - taking a look at labels, taking a look at what clothes are made of, visiting you local tailor and seamstress and cobbler, you find many of these situations are more satisfying. Clothing is really personal it essential to the economy and culture.
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