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Beyond the fringe
It is May, and Anderson has just moved into his new flat, overlooking the high street, a short walk from his studio. He apologises for that insufficient furniture and gestures for me to take a seat on the more comfortable of the two chairs. There wouldn't be space for other things anyway. This is the very first time he has lived and worked separately but already it's like work has had over. He is anxious, and a little neurotic, a dreamer and a romantic, but that's why is his work interesting. His best ideas appear to come to him in early hours of the morning.
'When I actually do a new collection so many things get into it,' he says. 'At as soon as I'm just starting. I'm just trying to cut elements for next season.' Disseminate on one wall as well as on the ground below it, in neat rows, are A4 photocopies of photographs, sketches and books, in addition to a plastic carrier bag from Tesco - the beginnings of Anderson's next collection for spring/summer 2012.
Since the royal wedding, he has been fixating on anything that is red, white and blue. There is a book about skateboarders in California, another about basic machine embroidery stitches, some Larry Clark, some swatches of tweed in neon thread, a book of African masks. While the world continues its crazy hubbub outside, Anderson sits within this small room, quietly chain-smoking, contemplating the disparate elements that happen to possess caught his eye, soon to become the collection that will be shown to press and buyers at London Fashion Week.
BFC NEWGEN: The names to watch in British Fashion
'At the moment I understand where I am going,' he admits that. 'We're exploring this large patchwork formatting, a bit of this,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a little bit of that - there's lots of plastics. The gathering will seem like a Tesco carrier bag meets a laundry bag meets a preppy white shirt. It's a tiny bit sick and twisted again,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], evolving the looks that worked from last season, and just making it sharper.'
Of all the latest generation of favor designers, there's something extraordinary about Jonathan William Anderson. He's a rather punk, slightly wrong but utterly cool, pared-down aesthetic. You need to be that girl in the narrow boyish trousers and slimline tailored jacket,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the ankle-length navy-blue kilt having a skinny belt, or the blue paisley silk pleated skirt worn over a set of narrow silk paisley trousers having a hint of neon orange. You aren't quite sure concerning the funny hiking boots having a fringe of nylon hair growing out from beneath the orange laces,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but they make you smile and there's something delightfully odd about them.
'This season would be a tipping point for me,' Anderson says. 'I think I've become obsessed with this idea of making things sharper,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], more contemporary, as well as in a weird way a little bit more f***ed up. I did previously work at Prada like a visual merchandiser and it is making people want something that they never wanted, and putting a polythene bag with silk taffeta, really mixing those textures together. It is a big risk bringing a lot of elements to some table to try and allow it to be tasteful. I was thinking, what's relevant for now?'
J W Anderson autumn/winter 2010/11 collection
It's not as though Anderson has just arrived on the scene. His first show at London Fashion Week is at September 2008 with a assortment of menswear he soon discovered women desired to wear too. Last winter he made an assortment for ladies as well and, suddenly, he is at that tricky time for any designer when all the world wants a piece of him and really understand - or care - that it is just him, having a small design team of 4, several interns along with a PR. He is selling at Liberty, Browns and Harrods in Britain and at the very best stores internationally - 10 Corso Como,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Colette and Opening Ceremony. 'Business isn't what my thing is. But you are attempting to deliver, you're trying to do each one of these things. Then people perceive that you have this unique life, that everything is all books stacked towards the ceiling, that you take cabs everywhere, spend time with all your mates. It isn't like this. It is literally, as my father says,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the rag trade.'
Anderson is a designer who responds as to the he sees around him (your hair colour of one of his interns inspired the hair about the shoes he spent time straightening and colouring) or simply to how he is feeling on that day. When he ran autumn/winter he was, he admits, feeling a little frustrated. 'I would be a bit stroppy,' he admits that. 'I was performing these collections and we didn't have the money - and that i still don't have the money - but nonetheless attempting to finish so that it is the best it could be. There are plenty of fabrics I'd love to use, however, you can't since there are cost implications that begin to jab down your back. I did disappear for three months, internally, mentally, working 24 hours a day. And you do get delirious, and you're obsessing about every single thing.' He did not have Christmas this past year because he was working solidly from December to March. 'Every day, I'd go to sleep probably at 4am and get up at seven. It went on as well as on,' he admits that.
The intense work paid off. The uber-critical New York Times T blog noted on the weekend of the show last February, 'a new women's wear star was born… his show on Saturday would be a game changer. For a lot of people New York editors,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Anderson was our first show off the plane also it woke us up from your jet lag.' When he showed his collection included in the British Fashion Council's London collective at a showroom in Paris, American Vogue's Anna Wintour paid a trip making sure she stopped at his rail. 'Even in 5 minutes she provides you with that sense of, OK, and what are you on to next? Selling, production, who's assisting you? Who's not? Who's buying you? Who's not? I think ultimately she is a company and design person, the industry very rare hybrid. She's shrewd, and she recognizes that the young are always going to be needed; Paris is burning, cure is there to consider over big houses? It's a hard-ball game now, they're trying to find people, but they may not be the best match.'
Already Anderson, 26, has been approached by a major house in Paris, but he too is shrewd and understands the reality of such a move at this point in the career. 'It could have been great in order to go to Paris and also have a lot of money and a design team, but I've put so much into my very own label. It would be really exciting but after two years it might probably send you mental.'
As it is, Anderson has got the perfect set-up. He consults for the British underwear and T-shirt specialist Sunspel, designing a reasonably anonymous, small but perfectly formed assortment of cotton basics for males and ladies, all made in Long Eaton, Derbyshire.
'I work with these women at
Sunspel
, and they are an endangered species since they're in England plus they make clothing.' He manufactures their own collections in great britan wherever possible, while using
Sunspel
factory for jersey pieces,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych].
Anderson was created back in 1984 in Magherafelt, northern Ireland. His father, Willie Anderson, came from a household of farmers and continued to play rugby for Ireland, before helping coach the Scottish national team. Anderson's brother now plays professionally for Ulster. Anderson was brought to the finer points of material by his grandfather on his mother's side, who worked as the head of the textile company that specialised in camouflage. 'They used to make these awful tea towels with overprinting, like a kitten or a dog,' he says. 'I accustomed to see my grandfather doing all of the printing. I remember seeing camouflage being done, it had been so interesting.'
His grandmother had a sewing-machine and will make patchwork blankets from the scraps of camouflage. 'She used to make cushions and extremely over-the-top bedspreads with ruffles and embroidery. She was previously into weird, hard-to-find silk, which I thought was amazing.' Growing up, he was always making things. 'I was enthusiastic about making pompoms and knitting. I used to make them into chicks and weird animals.' He remembers cutting up the tea towels to create things with.
'My grandma will make a lot of knitted toys or patchwork toys.' She would also make clothes for Anderson and the brother and sister. 'She accustomed to knit matching sweaters constantly - I'd a jumper which was designed to have Winnie the Pooh's face about the front. And that we had these amazing sweaters that were blue having a tractor on the front. We do not ask them to any more and I'm gutted. I mean, it's something I'd reproduce now.'
The way his grandmother dressed was also an inspiration. 'She never left the farm, and my dad would bring her back all of this sports gear from the sponsors. And so i remember seeing my grandmother wearing a grey 1970s sports bottom having a pinny, a horrendous golf sweater.' The paisleys he used for his autumn/winter collection reminded him of his grandmother. 'There's one blue look - it's so weird, she appeared as if my grandmother.'
When Anderson moved to London, he applied to Central Saint Martins but didn't get in. He was advised to use to the menswear course at the London College of favor. 'You would wake up at six each morning and they would not open the store until it had been done.
It had been incredible.' There, he met Manuela Pavesi, Prada's visionary fashion coordinator, who does brief they and whose style he says he's secretly obsessed with. 'She has this type of dark, twisted view but nonetheless so chic. She turned up once in silk pyjamas, layered your blue-and-white business shirt outrageous, then a crocodile wedge, then an Astrakhan coat, carrying a crocodile bag then a supermarket carrier bag. For me that's real fashion.'
Somehow, between employed by Prada and a lot of partying, he were able to graduate having a final collection. 'It was awful. Used to do resin insect necklaces on guys, Aran knitwear, and I think I'd see-through underwear. It was absolutely, shockingly bad. I think they were like, "We're passing you so we can get eliminate you."' Using the self-belief of youth, however,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he had already set up their own label and showed his first menswear collection at London Fashion Week the same year.
Since that time, he's been creating a cult following for his menswear and has become the hot ticket for his women's show in a few days. Honing his particular aesthetic has had him some time but he's in the stride with his androgynous style, his skewed mixes of references and textures, his fluffy mohair tops, classic navy trousers, and the collages of pattern and shape. 'I love this idea when five garments meet in a single,' he says. 'It is this concept of a two-piece that looks just like a one-piece, that all you need to do is zip this on and that's it. It is a little bit communist inside a weird way however i think good design is much like that - things that function with each other.'
And then there are these shoes. A couple of months after our interview, I saw Anderson striding down Kingsland Road, carrying a set of oversized work boots that looked as though they'd nails hammered into them. Strange footwear is another of his obsessions. 'You need to have some irony,' he laughs. 'Maybe fashion shouldn't be about being funny, but I think it should be there, there must be a little bit of humour.'
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